こんにちは！ますたくです。
今回は前回の続きという事で第二次世界大戦が終わった後の1950年代からご説明させて頂きます。
ざっくりとした内容になっておりますので、どういったことがあって、流行ったんだなということをふんわり頭に入れる程度の感覚でご覧ください！
追々詳細な記事を投稿していきますね！
1950年代
ファッションと音楽
まずは当時のアメリカにおいてファション的に流行った物があります。
ビンテージフリークの方なら当然ご存知かと思います。
それは…
“ロカビリー”
まずロカビリーとは1950年代に誕生した音楽の一つなんです。
ファッションと音楽がなんで一つになってるの？
そう思われる方も多いと思います。
この年代頃からファションと音楽は切っても切り離せない関係があります。
音楽をしている人がファションアイコンになるんです。
※映画とかもありますが…
昨今でも多いですよね。
“菅田将暉が着てるから…”
“キムタクが着てるから…”
“カニエが着てるから…”
ますたく
それは僕たちが産まれる前から続く伝統のような物なんです。
じゃあ50年代のファションアイコンは誰か？
今回は男性に絞ってご紹介させて頂きます。
“エルヴィス・プレスリー”
ロックンロールの創始者の1人であり、キングオブロックンロールと呼ばれるほとんどの方が知ってるであろう人物です。
世界で最も売れたソロアーティストとしても有名ですね…
革ジャンや開襟のレーヨンシャツにリーゼント。
そんなイメージが非常に強いと思います。
当時の若者はそれに憧れ、皆こぞって真似をしていたんです。
また今度機会があればロカビリーの洋服については詳しく紹介したいと思っています。
ちなみにそんな最中、世界では皆さんも一度は耳にしたことがある「冷戦」のきっかけとなる
南北朝鮮戦争
が起こっていました。そちらはボリュームが多いので別記事にてまとめておりますので是非ご覧ください！
それでは続いては60年代にいってみましょう。
1960年代
ビートルズとファッション
50年代はロックンロールが流行していましたが、60年代もその風潮は継続していました。
では、60年代で有名なアーティストは誰か？
恐らく知らない方はいないかと思います。
“The Beatles”
ジョンレノン・ポールマッカートニー・ジョージハリスン・リンゴスターの4人組のロックバンドです。
ちなみに僕の住んでいる広島にはビートルズ好きなマスターが営む「yesterday」という喫茶があります。店内BGM、フィギアなどビートルズ尽くしで本当に楽しい空間です。
yesterdayの外観です。ファンには堪らないですよね＾＾
アメリカにイギリスのカルチャーが色濃く浸透しており、“トラッド”などのファッションが流行していました。
トラッドとは和製英語で、厳密に言うとトラディショナルという言葉の意味になります。
英国紳士のファションが原点になっており、ジャケットにシャツ、チノパンなどと品のあるイギリスの伝統的なファッションを表す物となっています。
逆にその時イギリスではモッズというカルチャーが浸透しており、音楽やファッション、それをベースとしたライフスタイルを指します。
その時流行ったジャケットがあります。
“M-51 フィールドコート”
ますたく
そこで気付く事がありますよね？？
“M-51ってアメリカ軍の物だよね？？”
そうなんです。アメリカ軍のコートを身に纏いバイクに跨り遊び呆けていました。
そうしてアメリカはイギリスの洋服がイギリスはアメリカの洋服がそれぞれ流行ったわけなんです。
ますたく
他にもルーツは色々とありますが、今回は印象的な物だけご説明させて頂きますのでまた機会があれば深くまでご説明させてください。
1970年代
参照:https://www.lefashion.com/2015/09/1970s-street-style-photos.html
ヒッピースタイルの流行
70年代は既存社会に不満を抱えて、世の中の流れに疲弊しきった若者達を中心に伝統や制度などを解き放たれた自由な生活な求めて野生的な生活を始めました。
それが俗にいう“ヒッピー”です。
ジェンダーレス・反戦・ドラッグの解禁など”ラブ&ピース”を提唱して社会の流れに中指を立てていました。
そのヒッピー達がしていたファッションがタイダイにフレアパンツ。
またクラフトレザーやリメイクをして自分なりの感性・感覚をファッションを通して体現していました。
70年代を語る上で外せない文化の一つですね。
もう一つ70年代といえば襟が長く、体のラインに沿ったシャツ。
通称“ディスコシャツ”等が若者達の間で流行しました。
70年代の代表的なアーティストは
“クイーン”
“ボブマーリー”
“ピーターマックス”
ピーターマックスはグラフィックデザイナーでビートルズのイエローサブマリンのジャケットを作製した事でも有名です。
ますたく
70年代は多種多様な文化なのがまた面白いポイントの一つです。
ますたく
1980-90年代
黒人アーティストとヒップホップ・R＆B
80年代は様々な文化がミックスされているので80.90年代は一纏めでご説明します。
音楽シーンで着々と黒人が台頭してきます。
マイルスデイビス
ボブマーリー
ジミヘンドリクス
様々な黒人アーティストがいますが、80ー90年代でヒップホップとR&Bが流行します。
そこで当時のアーティストの真似をして昨今人気のオーバーサイズの服が流行したわけです。
絶大な影響力を持っていた
“2PAC”
“ノートリアスB.I.G”
彼らは互いの抗争により射殺されています…
当時は“ブート”わかりやすく説明すると“偽物”の商品も多く作ってました。
古着屋さんでも良く見かけるかと思います。
“これは本物じゃないんだ…”
多くの人がそう思われると思います。
ただ一概に”偽物”じゃないんです。
黒人差別が徐々に薄まる中、社会的地位が確立していきました。
ただ完全には収まることは無く、
低賃金な労働者が多くギャングなどは勿論ブランド品を買う余裕はありません。
ますたく
そんな中で黒人は”偽物”を作りました。
それは”黒人でもブランド品が着れるんだぜ“という黒人の意思だと思うんです。
黒人の”意思”と”プライド”が詰まっている物がブートだと思います。
そうなるとまた見え方が変わってきますよね？
ますたく
グランジ
また90年代はもう一つ興味深いカルチャーがあります。
“グランジ”
汚れた、薄汚いなどの意味をもつ言葉で、NIRVANAのボーカルであるカートコバーンが着用しているようなダメージジーンズにネルシャツといったスタイルの事を指します。
他にもパジャマシャツやモヘアカーディガンなど色々あるので知りたい方は”カートコバーン ファッション”で検索してみてください。
ますたく
圧倒的なカリスマ性と音楽性を兼ね備えたカートコバーンが後世に残した影響はとても大きかったと思います。
いや〜、面白い。
終わりに
ざっとこんな感じで各年代のファッションのご説明をさせて頂きました。
各年代によって時代背景、ファッションアイコンが移り変わっていく中で流行した服も変わっていきます。
勿論日本にも多大な影響を与えているファッションなので身近に感じる事のできる文化だと思います。
そうやって当時の時代背景などを意識して服を見てみるとまた違った表情を見せてくれるのでそこも古着の魅力の一つです。
また洋服の紹介の時にこのカルチャーにも触れていきますので、お楽しみに。
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